Conversion Process - Electrical - Dash Instruments
Sorting out the "New" look instrument cluster
Playing "Used Car Salesman" - servicing and resetting the odometer to "000000" Electric Vehicle Km
0 to 200 Amp LCD display (using a shunt) - replaces old Fuel and Temperature gauges....
This will be used to monitor the motor current under a variety of driving conditions
a good tool to try and improve driving habits to get the best range from the battery pack
A - A small 1 watt 12 volt to 12 volt isolated inverter is used to allow the unit to "float" .
Battery packs, especially when used with brush type DC motors, are normally floated and NOT grounded to the chassis. The auxiliary 12 volt system does remain connected to chassis ground as normal. The main reason is with use, the brush area of the motor can start developing some resistance to the motor body (dust from the brushes as they wear). The motor body is connected to chassis ground. This could cause problems if one side of the battery pack was connected to chassis as well. The DIY electric car forum can provide more information if needed.
B - Small screen covers the vent opening to help keep unwanted insects nesting in here!
C - Self tapping screws used to block unused holes
A - Small screen covers the vent opening
B - Short jumper wire that replaces the PCB track that was cut to allow for nylon bolt "C"
C - Nylon mounting nut and bolt used to secure the mounting clip for 12 volt to 12 volt isolated inverter (see above inside view photograph)
The finished instrument group - very simple...
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