Conversion Process - Electrical - High current crimp lug tips.....

Soldering the crimped lugs can help reduce the milliohm readings

and ensure a more reliable longer term high current connection

But ONLY solder the very end bit of the cable via the opening in the end of the lug

A heat gun is adequate for the job

and damage to the insulation can be prevented by wrapping the cable end with a wet sponge as shown

Keep the sponge wet....

A reasonable amount of solder will be "wicked" up by the fine copper strands.... 

Finished job....

Here is a sample soldered lug cut in half to show what happens....

The solder should only  wick up a small distance NOT to the end of the crimp!

Otherwise you will reduced the flexibility of the cable.....

We have measured (using a 4 terminal 4 1/2 digital fluke milliohm meter) the difference between soldered and non solder samples

the solder samples always have a lower reading

It is worth noting that a newly crimped lug that is not solder (or treated with Penetrox or Noalox - see below....) will only deteriate over time with vibration,

heat, cold and humidity but a correctly soldered or treated lug will maintain its lower reading under the same conditions.

Some older experienced transmission line electricians choose to half fill the lug with an anti-corrosion compound product like Burndy's Penetrox or Ideal's Noalox before crimping. Google these two products if interested..... We have bought some of the Burndy products at work so you can source this stuff locally.

Remove an excess solder and ensure the contact area is flat.....

Excessive solder on the lug contact area will extrude with time causing a loose connection and thus over heating of the connection!

A - Crimp lug

B - S/S Flat washer

C - S/S Spring washer

Then torque to correct tension - Especially the battery terminals!!

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